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​Old Florida Blog

Jug Island, it used to be its own little West Coast Stiltsville

5/29/2013

4 Comments

 
Picture
At one time houses stood in the water at Jug Island. Photo: Florida State Archives.
Towering three feet above mean sea level Taylor County’s Jug Island was once home to a bunch of rickety houses on stilts, some out over the water, some on land. We vacationed there a few times, if you can call a weekend a vacation.

For me, it was the best possible place. It was on the water, heck, in the water and it never got over my head so I was allowed to go in and out as I pleased.

My recollection is of parking on the shore and wading out the house with our weekend supplies. The sand bottom made the water fairly glow somewhere between gold and green. Occasionally there were batches of sea grass but I avoided those ‘cause who knows what might be in there.

Each little house had a small porch and wooden steps leading down into the water.  It must have been summer because Cracker Floridians like us didn’t go to the beach in the winter then. The water was warm, always. At low tide it was about knee deep and at high tide above my waist.

Although looking at pictures tells me it was really humble, to me it was a shining palace. All I cared about was that it was an adventure like some crazy wonderful thing I had made up except it was real.

I always had a good imagination and frequently turned mundane places into exotics. Like I might turn my grandparents’ screened front porch into an old chugging boat ambling up the Amazon. Or a tree fort might turn into a real fort with hostile Indians milling below, making me hold my breath until I got a good shot.

I’ve been on wild horses you might have thought were 55 gallon drums laying on their sides and in stagecoaches that strongly resembled the backseat of cars.

But Jug Island, it was real.

Once when we were there the horseshoe crabs were in. I guess they were there to mate but I thought of them as dangerous sea monsters intent on killing me. Fortunately they moved rather slowly and I was able to drift over them while pretending not to see them and then suddenly discover them and, knife clinched between my teeth, swim away to safety. I don’t think they ever noticed me. 

We usually went fishing and had fresh fish, grits and hushpuppies to eat while the sun crawled into bed at the far reaches of the Gulf of Mexico. I felt my skin get tight from the salt and brown from the hours of imaginary adventure. 

A brief entry in a Taylor County historical site says Henry and Headie Towles Hagan bought the island and built those houses to rent out. The sponge divers up from Tarpon Springs sometimes used it as a port as did some fishermen and people from nearby Central Florida.

Jug Island is located on that nearly desolate stretch of Gulf coast between Steinhatchee and Dekle Beach. There are not many ways to get there. It is definitely an end of the road place. And like most end of the road spots in the Sunshine State, if it doesn't yell Old Florida, it certainly whispers it in the wind.

 Years ago I went looking for Jug Island again and all I found was a fancy gate blocking the road. Somebody in Dekle told me the island had been sold to a doctor who made it his weekend getaway. 

In my mind, whatever he built behind that pretty gate will never match what used to be. But hopefully he’s got some kids and they are out there creating adventures that go way beyond new houses or the blocked off road that no longer leads to the sea.
Picture
When I was growing up this wall didn't exist and you could drive down to the water and the ramshackle houses.
Picture
Nearby Keaton Beach is pretty Old Florida too and it's still there waiting for you to show up.
4 Comments
avis johnson
5/29/2013 06:44:22 am

Darn.....now I want to go explore Jug Island.
Thanks for the trip.

Reply
Linda Howlett
12/9/2014 06:51:20 am

Reading about your 55 gal. wild horses reminded me of wild horses you and I rode across the J.J. Finley playground in fifth grade! With a good imagination a child should never be bored.

Reply
Neil Sontag link
2/1/2015 02:38:05 am

My mom grew up near Live Oak and we'd come down from Minnesota to visit. My first visit was over 50 years ago and I remember it like yesterday, well actually, better than yesterday. Fiddler crabs, sea urchins, swimming with barracuda. Standing at the end of the dock looking in the water, I was amazed by how many fish you could see. I caught a pufferfish by hand in some shallow water. We had lunch in one of the stilt houses (could have been the one on the left ) and had my first taste of a hushpuppy but don't get me started on the food except for the sausage I had to track down 30 years later from Suwannee Pack in Live Oak.

Reply
Ann Williams
9/15/2015 06:20:40 am

As a little girl in 1947 was my first time going to Jug Island. My Dad & Mom would always take my sisters and brothers there for our summer vacation after all the farm crops were done. There would be about 40 or 50 of us together. Uncles and Aunts, their children, friends. We would cook and eat together and of course we had fish & grits everyday. I didn't appreciate how good the fish was then, but oh, how I wish I could go back and taste that fish now. Sixty six years later I still have so many memories of our visit there and all the fun we had and memories of my precious Mom & Dad. Does anyone remember "Robert" black man that worked there on the dock, he would help unload the fish and scale them and he did anything around the island. all the kids just loved him, he was so kind. I just loved Jug Island.

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    Writer and photographer Sue Harrison is a fifth generation Floridian who left for many years but came back still calling it home. 

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